Cycling story

Part 4 of 10: Biwa to the Golden Route

Dates: 29 March–27 April 2025
Distance: 2,304 km1,432 mi
Climbing: 18,902 m62,014 ft
Riding days: 20
Countries: Japan, South Korea

This part's Dates: 7–8 April 2025
This part's Distance: 285 km177 mi
This part's Climbing: 1,945 m6,381 ft
This part's Riding days: 2

Full route

Privacy-trimmed; some starts and finishes are shortened.

Himeji Castle's large white keep rising above cherry blossom trees under a blue sky

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A lap of Lake Biwa

Back on the bike for some of the best cycling infrastructure in Japan: there’s a full cycle lane that goes all the way around Lake Biwa, so of course I took advantage. The whole way round you’re cruising in the lane, away from cars, with an incredible view of the water. Highly recommend to everyone.

Away from the cars, with an incredible view.

A wide, calm view across Lake Biwa toward hills on the far shore — Highly recommend to everyone.

Planning the route, I’d noticed a bit of a viewpoint, but it looped back on itself, which I generally try to avoid. It looked like such a nice road and view that I made an exception. Also, it meant I could lighten the load of the bike, too. I found a quiet wall on the side of the road and hid one of the bags there:

A cycle path running along a low stone wall on a hillside above Lake Biwa — A quiet wall to hide a bag behind.

So I wouldn’t have to slog it up the climb. Worked out well.

Worked out well.

A bike with reduced luggage resting at a railing, overlooking Lake Biwa from a high viewpoint — Lighter, for the climb.

Worked out well.

A panoramic view over Lake Biwa and its small islands from the hillside viewpoint — Worked out well.

Back on the road, and you’re just treated to truly endless great views of the lake, all from a great cycle lane. Honestly, one of the best cycling days of my life.

Endless great views.

Also just cool sights out on the water.

A small torii gate standing in the water near the shore of Lake Biwa — Cool sights out on the water, too.

A wooden shrine building standing on stilts out in Lake Biwa, known locally as the Ukimido — Cool sights out on the water, too.

Not just lake, but mountains too.

That evening, now so close to Kyoto, I jumped on a local train and paid a visit. I did see this pretty cool shot on the way there - a salaryman under the beauty of a cherry blossom tree.

A man in a suit walking along a street beneath cherry blossom trees overhanging a stone wall — A salaryman under the beauty of a cherry blossom tree.

Kyoto itself was alright, but it really is super overcrowded with tourists (myself included this evening!), which kind of ruins the vibe. I’d been before, so I wasn’t overly sad about it.

A traditional building lit up at night, reflected in a still canal in Kyoto — Kyoto, overcrowded but still lovely.

A traditional five-storey pagoda illuminated at night among Kyoto’s older buildings — Kyoto, overcrowded but still lovely.

Kyoto, Osaka, and Himeji

The next day was perhaps one of the toughest of the trip: big miles, and an even bigger headwind. But it’s Japan, so the toughest day is still a joy in itself. It was cutting between the two big popular cities of Kyoto and Osaka.

It started with some great cycle paths and another classic river-and-cherry-blossom view.

It started with some great cycle paths.

A canal path lined with blossoming cherry trees, with two people walking along it — Another classic river-and-cherry-blossom view.

My videos capture some really peaceful roads, but they didn’t capture the really busy roads in the towns, with constant stop-start at the lights - this, with the strong headwind, was really sapping my strength.

My videos capture some really peaceful roads.

But even with all that, it’s still Japan, so once I reached the peaceful areas past the towns, while still super tired, it was just beautiful.

Still beautiful, even tired.

A rural road running between village houses, with hills visible under a grey sky — Still beautiful, even tired.

A loaded touring bike propped against a railing beside a river, with hills in the background — Still beautiful, even tired.

Still beautiful, even tired.

There’s always another castle to visit, too.

A white castle keep illuminated against the night sky, with cherry blossom silhouettes in the foreground — Always another castle to visit.

A rest day, so well timed after that difficult day. Being in Himeji, I had to go see what’s regarded as the best castle in Japan (Himeji Castle), and it certainly didn’t disappoint, even if it was a bit busy, as expected.

The approach to Himeji Castle lined with red foliage, with visitors walking toward the keep — Certainly didn't disappoint.

A high view over Himeji’s rooftops and surrounding hills, seen from the castle — Certainly didn't disappoint.

I then spent the evening walking around at a gentle pace, enjoying the peace of Japanese cities, it really is incredible, even with all the cars.

A tall stone monument with cherry blossoms in the foreground, under a clear blue sky — Enjoying the peace of Japanese cities.

I sat up here for about an hour, just watching the trains go by and the sunset slowly come on.

A sunset over a hillside town, with silhouetted buildings and trees in the foreground and the sun low on the horizon — Watching the sunset slowly come on.