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← Tokyo to Seoul

Cycling story

Part 9 of 10: The Four Rivers route to Daegu

Dates
29 March–27 April 2025
Distance
2,304 km1,432 mi
Climbing
18,902 m62,014 ft
Riding days
20
Countries
Japan, South Korea
This part's Dates
23–25 April 2025
This part's Distance
337 km209 mi
This part's Climbing
1,783 m5,850 ft
This part's Riding days
2

Full route

Privacy-trimmed; some starts and finishes are shortened.

A sunset over a wide river with the Daegu skyline silhouetted along the far bank

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The Four Rivers route to Daegu

This was to be a big day: 200km from Busan to Daegu. On the way out I was treated to a pretty cool building, can’t get more Korean than that. I think it’s actually a hotel.

An ornately decorated building with a multi-tiered pagoda-style roof, resembling a hotel, beside a road in Busan
Can't get more Korean than that.

Then off to the start (or for most people, the end) of the 4 Rivers route: a really popular cycle route running all the way from Seoul to Busan, cutting across Korea on mostly amazing bike paths and mostly pretty flat. I saw people doing it on Bromptons, so I reckon pretty much anyone can manage it over a number of days. My challenge was to do it in four, which was certainly on the speedier end of finishes.

A blue gateway arch marking the start of a cycle route, with a loaded bike parked beside it
The start (or for most people, the end) of the 4 Rivers route.

And off we go. The cycle lanes were instantly amazing, as you’d imagine. The obvious differences from Japan: the towns were so much louder, since Korea doesn’t have the same speed limits, so drivers were way faster, plus 빨리빨리 (“hurry hurry”) culture. Also, having to cycle on the right side was a bit of a change, but even the shape of towns was different, with more apartment buildings making everything taller and more modern. But those cycle lanes, just incredible. And of course, more incredible bridges.

Instantly amazing cycle lanes.
Those cycle lanes, just incredible.
More incredible bridges.
A wide river view with a distant bridge, seen from a signposted riverside cycle path
More incredible bridges.

Also, much like Japan, the classic amazing view while cycling over a river.

The classic amazing view, cycling over a river.
The classic amazing view, cycling over a river.

Perhaps not everyone likes bikes though, scratched into this is 자전거 X, or Bicycle X in English. I guess no bikes allowed.

A no-cycling pictogram sign fixed to a tree beside a path
I guess no bikes allowed.

I saw some different kinds of temples than in Japan (no, they aren’t Nazis, before anyone asks), while soaking in some great views and cruising down endlessly good lanes. Honestly, even if you aren’t into bikepacking but you like cycling, you should do this route. It was certainly a long day, so I was glad to arrive in Daegu for a rest day.

A hillside temple complex with terraced tiled roofs among trees
Some different kinds of temples than in Japan.
A long straight road crossing a lake, with hills lining the horizon
Soaking in some great views.
Cruising down endlessly good lanes.
Endlessly good lanes.
A sunset over a wide river with the Daegu skyline silhouetted along the far bank
Glad to arrive in Daegu for a rest day.

Daegu was amazing to walk around, I’d only briefly been here before, on a bit of a rushed day trip, so it was nice to walk at my own pace, and the weather treated me well. I saw a weird kind of inception thing with tennis courts inside a stadium, one of them enclosed in its own mini stadium. Ended the rest day with a personal favourite from when I lived in Korea for a while: pizza school.

The Daegu monorail track running above a tree-lined riverside path
Daegu, walked at my own pace.
A hazy aerial view over dense Daegu rooftops and apartment blocks
The weather treated me well.
An aerial view of a stadium complex with several tennis courts, including one enclosed in its own miniature stadium
A weird kind of inception thing.
A red pizza box lid printed with the ‘Pizza School’ logo and a QR code
A personal favourite: pizza school.

Day two of cycling in Korea, and I was hit with the misfortune of a bit of pollution. I love Korea, and it’s an amazing country, but it does suffer from a pollution problem at times. It didn’t affect me too much, but it does create a bit of a haze on the hills that isn’t the most welcoming. Tons of amazing bridge crossings, though:

Tons of amazing bridge crossings.
A striking angular white building on the waterfront, with boats moored nearby
Tons of amazing bridge crossings.
A carved stone pillar beside a lake, part of a bridge or monument
Tons of amazing bridge crossings.
A view along a bridge railing over a wide river with hills in the distance
Tons of amazing bridge crossings.

And some amazing temples, even one with a grave to a loyal cow!

A lake view with a small pagoda-roofed temple building among trees on the far shore
Some amazing temples.
A traditional Korean temple pavilion with an upturned tiled roof among pine trees
Some amazing temples.
The temple’s gated entrance and courtyard, with an empty car park in the foreground
Some amazing temples.
A brown signpost reading ‘Grave of Loyal Cow’ with a direction arrow, beside flowering shrubs
A grave to a loyal cow.

There was a short bit of weirdly steep climbing:

A cycle-route sign and a Korean steep-descent warning sign among trees at the top of a climb
A short bit of weirdly steep climbing.

But the amazing cycling paths and views more than made up for the pollution.

The amazing cycling paths and views.
A wetland river view with reed beds and distant hazy hills
The amazing cycling paths and views.

The second-last day cycling in Korea, and on this trip. Similar to the last few days in Japan, it was starting to dawn on me that I’d actually complete this, but also that it was nearly, sadly, over. The pollution was a bit less that day, so it was a great chance to soak it all in again.

A great chance to soak it all in again.
A great chance to soak it all in again.

This was also the “big climb” of the 4 Rivers route; reviewing it against the climbs in Japan, it didn’t look too bad, and all the training paid off, making it mostly a breeze. Still an amazing view at the top, though:

A loaded touring bike resting against a railing at a viewpoint over a layered green mountain valley, with a road winding through it below
Still an amazing view at the top.
A layered green mountain valley seen from a viewpoint, with a road winding along the valley floor below
Still an amazing view at the top.

And shortly after I was treated to one of my favourite pictures of the whole trip.

A suspension footbridge crossing between two rocky outcrops above a small waterfall and river
One of my favourite pictures of the whole trip.