Part 5 of 10: Into Shikoku

An island before Shikoku

Now, it’s time for a ferry: it isn’t a good bikepacking trip unless there’s a ferry involved.

These trips could always be designed as the straightest, easiest route possible, but where’s the fun in that? So I added an “island hop” in the middle of the Japan leg, and rather than go around it on the coast road, I went straight up and over.

This was an incredible climb - not only did the roads snake around the hill in such a cool way while providing amazing views, but it was also so quiet and empty of cars. Not as if there’d be much traffic on a random island. One of my favourite climbs ever, with the cherry on top being that incredible view at the summit.

What I loved, too, is that even though this is just a random island, the road surface is unbeatable. Really puts the UK to utter shame.

But of course, I had to leave the island again after this slight adventure, so back on another ferry.

The mountain stage

On Shikoku! For sure my favourite of the main islands of Japan so far, only been to three after all.

The next day I had three routes planned: two into the mountains and one along the coast, the idea being “am I too tired?” after the island, or “is the weather too dangerous?” for the mountains. I was feeling fresh, so I wanted the hills, but the weather being pure fog was tempting me not to. But I’m on an “aventure”! And “aventures” have to have some danger. I decided the forest path would be too risky in the fog, after the earlier hike-a-bike had taught me how steep and slimy that kind of path can get wet, so the main road it was.

The main road worried me a little, as I thought it might be busy, but it was actually relatively empty. However, it did give silent hill vibes.

At one point I heard a real rumble coming from up the road, then two “eyes” appeared in the fog ahead. Turned out to be a truck. Super freaky.

As an example of how foggy it was: this is what I could see, and this is what I was supposed to see. Crazy.

Then the mega tunnel. 1.6 kilometres long and super narrow. I knew it was coming and, to be honest, wasn’t even sure I could cycle through it. But better ask forgiveness than permission, sometimes…

But it was worth it for the waterfall at the other end.

The amazing thing, too, was that on the other side of the tunnel all the fog was gone. I was super excited, knowing it promised some incredible views.

Just cycling through this incredible valley, with barely any traffic and amazing roads. Hands down one of the best cycling days of my life.

Even had ways to avoid the tunnels!

I love it when you see an incredible view, appreciate it, and then go over to see it from another angle: below the bridge, on the bridge, seeing the dam, on the dam.

Just endless great views, and so damn quiet with barely any traffic.

My only issue was a bit of a lack of supplies, but the views were so good it was fine. Again, I’d prepared for this and had bought some Calorie Mate bars (Metal Gear Solid reference there) to get me through.

But who cares about food when you have views like this

Well, you start to remember how hungry you are after you have to go through another 1km+ tunnel 😅. Well if every tunnel brought you to a mystical world like this, then I’ll go through whatever tunnel you want.

The rest of the day was coming back out of the valley, down some more incredible roads. I was actually kind of sad to leave that amazing route behind. I’ll have to return. I’m glad I took some last looks before it was out of sight.

All that was left was to roll into town for another rest day. What a way to end what will likely be an unbeatable cycling day for the rest of my life.