Skip to main content
Neil ArmstrongSoftware architect and developer
Menu
← Tokyo to Seoul

Cycling story

Part 7 of 10: The last days in Japan

Dates
29 March–27 April 2025
Distance
2,304 km1,432 mi
Climbing
18,902 m62,014 ft
Riding days
20
Countries
Japan, South Korea
This part's Dates
17–19 April 2025
This part's Distance
328 km204 mi
This part's Climbing
3,032 m9,948 ft
This part's Riding days
3

Full route

Privacy-trimmed; some starts and finishes are shortened.

A mountain valley and village seen from a road along the top of a dam, with a guardrail in the foreground

Loading privacy-trimmed route…

The last days in Japan

My final day cycling in Japan with a fully loaded bike (though not the last official cycling day 😉). At this point it was starting to sink in that my cycle through Japan was coming to an end, so I was trying to soak it in as much as possible.

Trying to soak it in as much as possible.

One thing I haven’t mentioned is all the train tracks you have to navigate! Japan is famous for its train services, not just often and on time but spread out everywhere, so you cross the tracks quite often. I noticed the behaviours are quite different from Europe: everyone stops at the crossing and looks both ways, even with the gate already open; there’s no big rush on the barrier opening, perhaps because everyone stops to check anyway; and everyone comes to a stop on the barrier closing, in a very relaxed manner. It’s a habit I’ve kind of adopted, though it’s slowly disappearing now I’m out with my cycling club and no one else is doing it, so a bit dangerous for me to suddenly stop or slow down 😅. It’s interesting that a country so locked into trains still has this safety habit embedded in all its drivers.

The crossing habit I've kind of adopted.
More soaking the views in.

After arriving at my hotel for the next two nights, there was, weirdly, a tower that looked like a bit of a disco ball. So obviously I wanted to go to the top, and there I got a view of the ferry I’d be jumping on in a few days.

An illuminated tower building glowing orb-like at night above an empty street
A bit of a disco ball.
A night view over a harbour with a brightly lit ferry on dark water, seen from a height
A view of the ferry I'd be jumping on in a few days.

But cycling in Japan isn’t quite done yet. My initial plan was to cycle from Tokyo to Fukuoka and get the fast boat from there, but for a few months, right when I was doing the trip, the fast boat from Fukuoka was under maintenance, and there were no other ferries to Busan from there either. So the plan was dead, and instead I needed the slow boat from Shimonoseki. That didn’t stop me wanting to “complete” the trip to Fukuoka, though, and it meant I’d hit three of the four main Japanese islands.

So onto the bullet train, to do a bit of a reverse of the last day I was going to do.

Onto the bullet train.

Sure, it’s way faster. But nowhere near as fun as cycling. With no bags with me, I’d planned a bit of a hilly return to Shimonoseki: up to a shrine to see a big statue, up a dam, through the hills, and back down through a tunnel to Honshu.

A white Shinkansen bullet train stopped at a platform with a bike travel bag beside it
Onto the bullet train.

Art does mirror life at times.

A cat curled up asleep on gravel beside a car’s wheel and a bike’s saddle and pedal
Art does mirror life at times.
A large reclining Buddha statue on a paved plaza, with several visitors standing in front and a wooded hillside behind
And again.

Then up the dam, for a pretty sweet view. The temperature had really ramped up today, too. It’s weird thinking I started my trip at around 8 degrees, and now I was hitting around 37. The seasons really do flip quickly in Japan.

Green terraced fields with a large dam structure and hills in the distance
Up the dam.
A mountain valley and village seen from a road along the top of a dam, with a guardrail in the foreground
Up the dam.
A Garmin bike computer screen showing a temperature reading of 37.3 degrees alongside speed and heart rate fields
The seasons really do flip quickly in Japan.

I was really feeling the “last day in Japan”, so while the cycle was incredible, it was melancholy. I’ll just have to come back, won’t I?

Melancholy, on the last day in Japan.
A quiet paved village road curving between houses with mountains and utility poles behind
I'll just have to come back, won't I?
A suspension bridge crossing water at dusk, seen from a hillside path curving down towards it
I'll just have to come back, won't I?

I nearly didn’t want to go back and end it! But one last tunnel back to Honshu.

One last tunnel back to Honshu.
An orange-lit tunnel floor with a Japanese road sign reading Yamaguchi Prefecture on the wall
One last tunnel back to Honshu.
An informational plaque mounted on a tunnel wall showing a map and illustration with Japanese text
One last tunnel back to Honshu.